Finding Bill: Si Pha Don

Si Pha Don, the 4000 islands, lie on the Mekong at the very Southern tip of Laos just before the river flows into Cambodia. They form the basis for cataracts on the river that for years blocked it being navigable from the ocean through to China, so there are a number of quite chunky waterfalls in the area, in water volume if not in height.

In terms of tourists there are three main islands (dons), Don Khong to the north and Don Det and Don Kone next to each other (joined by a bridge even) further south. The other 3997 vary as water levels rise and fall, with some being big and inhabited and others being small tummocks that come and go.

Don Khong, my first stop is quite big (I clocked up 29km cycling a loop of the north of it), not massively touristed compared to it's southern neighbours and very very relaxed. So relaxed in fact that I tarried an extra day that I'd planned to spend on Don Kone as I was busy doing nothing. Probably just as well as the southern islands seem rammed with backpackers although even so, Don Kone seems tucked up in bed by 10.

There followed a boat trip down to Don Kone and yet more being busy doing nothing bar going around the island and Don Det. I did cycle round along the route of an old French track that was part of.a system to allow them to get past the myriad waterfalls and on to the next stage of the river but mostly I ate and drank and read.